When the glue has set and these valves are sliced apart, you will have the job half done. A keyboard feels "shallow" if the drop is much less than 3/8 inch, and feels "deep" if much more than that. With all the cleaning and preparation done, you will need to cut the requisite number of new bushings. Various formulations of beeswax were popular polishes when the organ was in regular use, and this has accumulated a lot of dirt. The first of the "deadly sins of screwing", then, is to place the wrong type of head into the other kind of hole. Harmoniums are pressure instruments, and altogether a "different breed of cat". Still, they are surprisingly robust, in that they suffer the indignities of dirt and corrosion for years, but go right on speaking. Hydrochloric acid also tends to dissolve the zinc from brass preferentially, causing embrittlement. You *should* use hot glue, but liquid hide glue also works here. You will probably need to replace the felt strips which the reed frame butts impinge right in front of the cells. OHS publishes its journal four times a year. I return to regularly scheduled discussion in Part 12, following. KEEP THESE IN THEIR ORIGINAL ORDER! This little treatise will be devoted to only three types of screw. Reed organs were, for the most part, assembled using screws. Best, here, is a *very* thin and *very* sharp skiver's knife, but a single-edge razor blade (changed often) does well. (Many builders were not averse to using small carpet-tacks to hold the rubber cloth until the glue sets: on the long parts, no more than one in the center and one close to each end. Screws are capable of exerting enormous forces, which can result in great damage to wood when the compressive strength of the parts is exceeded.  Nowadays, there is a plethora of new kinds, most of them used for joining very specific materials, and often using special tools; of these there will be no discussion here. All of the above must be done twice, of course. It is *very* difficult to re-assemble a jumble of keys that have been dumped in a box. If so, the fabric has to be replaced. The firm that produced this organ was originally known as the Mechanical Orguinette Company , and then later changed to the Aeolian Organ & Music Company , then ultimately Aeolian . Moderate skill with tools. The Aunt Maude Series updated and illustrated on CD. This index contains the complete table of contents, and three indexes, based on author, keyword and on reed organ name. Reeds that have been in place for a hundred years or so may be loathe to come out of their cell tidily. Apply a small bit of fairly thin glue and let it dry: then a bit more glue and the dot. When all the tails are tucked, the final seal strips that usually over-lie them can be glued on: leave these over-wide, and when *all* the glue is fairly well set up, trim off all the excess cloth using the *fresh* razor-blade technique. If this is necessary, number the keys (if they aren't already) neatly so they will go back in the correct order. The fabric serves to ease movement and prevent rattle. This process, if the mix is right, will remove soot and corrosion easily, leaving bright metal behind. MARKINGS: Dates, signatures, job numbers, tuners' information and other items of interest that have been placed on various keys, usually in pencil. About leather: thin cabretta is wonderful - if you can get it. When it's loose, lift off the keyboard entire, and set it aside, again being careful of "thingies" that may protrude from beneath. they need not be glued. Playing and restoring reed organs is a hobby of mine, bringing them back to their … But fairly early on the industry standardized on the "bent wire" action, which was produced for any number of builders in one factory: an early example of "outsourcing". Another way is to take electronic pictures, if you have a digital camera; these can be printed out and used later as guidance. I find ordinary household ammonia both cheap and effective: get the kind that does NOT contain detergent. This *can* get tricky, and there's a lot to explain. Quick Search Power Search Other Continents. before taking out this "lower action". CATCH RAIL: (Key retainer) A strangely-shaped wooden piece at the rear of the keyboard which prevents the key-tails from rising when the front is pushed down. Such a project has many pitfalls I won't address here, although the basics still apply. A plastic pot-scratcher helps in the stubborn spots. (Some early organs and melodeons did not use bushings on the key pins" excessive wear on these is difficult to reverse: consult an expert). French estey reed organ used . It was first made in France by Alexandre Debain in 1840, who patented his Harmonium in Paris on August 9, 1840. Excellent pristine finish and in good playing condition. They will require touch-up tuning later, but for now, procure a fine artist's brush or badger shaving brush, and carefully brush off all loose material, moving *always* along the tongue from butt (rivet) to tip. We turn our attention to the valves, proper operation of which is obviously critical to a successful refurbishment of a reed organ. It may be necessary to lay the organ case on its back to access the treadle straps; the springs are usually reached through a removable knee-panel. Begin by taking out the screws, removing the straps, and parting the lower action from the foundation. For this work, a driver with the correct shape of tip, carefully dressed, should be used. At the same time, this characteristic of being tiny means they are the most delicate and most easily put out of order. To do it right, you need several yards, so that the reservoir can be wrapped with a single piece, as it was originally. But if the springs are outside, you'll need to move your props "around the corner", being careful NOT to punch any hole in the new material (except on the glue joint itself). BUSH: A verb, "to bush"; in essence, to create a bushed joint. Get used to using B (= bass) and T (= treble) to indicate which end of the organ things go to. You can drill a row of holes in a scrap of wood, or you can lay these out on sticky tape. With all these chores behind you, re-facing the valves (if necessary) is the next step, to be. Prevent this by putting the jar in the fridge until needed. The traditional lubricant is tallow, nowadays difficult to find. It often happens that the leather you use is enough thicker than the original to cause some binding of the mutes: they refuse to close cleanly. Log in If your organ is the type with mutes which are easily removed (metal hinges), you set the mutes aside earlier. Select a portion of the skin that is. Depending on the complexity of the organ, the first step is to get as much casework as necessary out of the way. Very often, though, turning the front pin (if it is oval) will take up the slack. KEY BED: Also, KEY FRAME. Reed Organ Society, Inc. - An International Organization. In any case, you will want to *try* to save one exhauster "wrapper" to use as a guide. Go for a weight (thickness) as nearly that of the original as possible, erring on the thicker side if necessary. Note: If you are in Florida, it may be 59, or 64. Liberal use of cotton swabs and/or toothbrushes may be required on ornate parts. But, the reed organs of the old parlors had an impressive gallary standing up nearly to the ceiling. This has to be glued tightly in place, as the pressure of atmosphere will tend to push it away from the crack, but the technique works and the minor unsightliness remains inside where it won't often be seen. When everything is disconnected, remove this action as a whole, and set it aside. A pair of tweezers, or a sharply-hooked piece of wire may be necessary. Your completed valves are returned to their original positions using the numbers as a guide, to be held in place by the same spring that did so originally. Pump Organ Restorations specializes in the restoration of all makes and models of Antique Reed Organs, Pump Organs and Melodeon Organs. Just as you change the timbre of your voice by constantly re-shaping your mouth, the cavity into which a reed speaks can have a marked effect on the final sound (along with matters having to do with the scale and shape of the reed itself, of course). An axiom to remember though, is, "If it was once produced, it can be dismantled, cleaned, and reassembled". Add to My List Edit this Entry Rate it: (0.00 / 0 votes). Nevertheless, we are now stuck with the design, so we have to live with it, and make it work again. Dislodge anything found by this inspection by further brushing. Set them aside. As each sticker is completed, it is dropped into its respective hole. LABEL all screws, with details about where the long and short ones go. The Tracker. If you have a belt sander, the task is simple: hold each valve in turn against the belt, with just enough time and pressure to yield a clean surface. It's time, too, to replace the silks behind any fretwork on the case or key-slip. The Reed Organ Society ©2018An International Organization, Reed Organ Manufacturers of Washington, New Jersey, Curiosity. Pyralin (and ivorine) are both VERY flammable, since they are both nitrocellulose. The screws used to assemble a reed organ are an important part of the original "fabric" of the instrument; they should be cleaned and re-used. This pin serves both to retain the key in position. Leave the hinge on the mute, taking out screws of the leaf that is on the cell block. If you are fortunate to have reeds in category 1, what is necessary is to remove *all* the loose dirt, but otherwise leave the reeds alone. Leveling comes next: you will need a good straight piece of wood that you can drop on the key cheeks (if present) or on temporary blocks at the end of the key bed. Trimmed neatly from thick paper, a business card, or whatever is appropriate, these will be held in place by the screws, so. Then let it dry thoroughly (overnight is best). Old reed bed felt is removed. Collapse a spring firmly in your hand and withdraw it. Allow plenty of time for them to dry before handling. They won't "feel" right, yet. *If* there is enough wood to use as a guide, tape a scrap of cardboard to a razor-blade such that this "shim" will hold the blade the requisite distance away from the wood as you make the cut. The first reed organ, also called a pump organ, was a Harmonium made by Alexandre Debain in 1840 in France. For this you need a reed hook and a steady hand. There, the crystal dishes from Ireland were on display. When it cool again, work the leaves and blow the loosened dirt and rust out with the air hose. Similarly, Category 3 reeds need to have this black stuff *and* corrosion products removed. In 2007–2009, the building was restored and converted for use as affordable housing. A swipe along the edges with a block of bees-wax will help them slide into position. It is not unusual to find a fair amount of corrosion on the guide pins, usually accumulated where the valve rested. So, drag the poor thing into the garage, assemble some tools, and fix up a workbench A disassembled reed organ takes up a good deal of space: have an area set aside where the components can be stored without being bothered by pets or children. End-grain, even in hardwood, does not grip the threads of a screw the way cross-grain does: it is the multitudinous fibers of the wood intersecting the threads at a steep angle that permit the screw to work. c/o Reed Organ Society PO Box 47 Independence, MO 64051-0047 Phone: 816-461-7300 Email: chuck99er(at)yahoo.com. Hence this treatise. International Reed Organ Society. Previous issues of the ROS Quarterly are currently available by this special offer - they are free! The ribs fold on the length-wise center-line; the middle ribs are centered with respect to the marks for the ends of the movable board, and the side ribs are placed using the old ones as a guide. In this instrument he used a pressure winding system, with free reeds. About leather, a word a bit further on: lets get on with application of the facings first. Mark the carrier as to where the reeds go! Applying the outside springs and any small wooden guides for them will complete the covering of the reservoir. You'll need a collection of brushes. Reeds are removed and cleaned. At this stage, we are just getting the *worst* of the grunge off the keys. The three types of screw to be discussed are all devoted to the fastening of bits and pieces of wood, although in reed organ work, they are occasionally used to fasten metallic parts to wood. Next, remove the stickers, a neat row of which you see protruding up through the swell action. (Don't laugh - even I have made this mistake). They can be numbered with an "electric pencil" on the under-side of each paddle. This treatise is NOT intended for those who seek to rescue Maude's organ if it's been stored in a leaky barn on the back forty for thirty years! Leave the excess on the movable part for later. The soundboard was usually shellacked, and the cleaning treatment may leave it a bit dingy. pick up in person cash on pick only. Definição em inglês: Reed Organ Society. Hot (bearable to touch) water is desired here, and it should be changed often - every dozen reeds or so, or whenever you can *see* gunk in the first rinse water. There are some museum curators who take the position that all reed organs, being more-or-less "old", should molder away in musty museums somewhere, to be played rarely (and only with permission! The Tracker. Note: Some actions can be removed from the case with the stop rail attached; others require the stop rail to be removed first (usually so you can reach some of the screws holding the action in place). Then again... You WILL need hot glue, by which I do NOT mean the gunk emitted from an electric glue-stick gun! This is not always easy, especially if the organ is fitted with the usual bass and treble couplers. Pipe organs were far too expensive even for most churches so the pump organ was the organ of choice. Put a board over them and stack up some weights, taking care *not* to shift the ribs as you do so. Set this aside, taking care not to bend any items that may protrude underneath. You have come a long way since then! Some reed organs are fitted with "qualifying tubes" - chambers of various sorts into which one or more reeds are allowed to speak. Folks with wives may prevail upon same to do needle-point covers, which can be done up with a very close approximation of the original design. I find it helpful to next tape off the areas *out*side the pencil tracings with ordinary masking tape. Assuming you removed the stop rail earlier, you will now see the keys. It must be smooth! This material is somewhat greasy and should be removed. Work this joint down well, and apply any wood strips that may have been over the cloth. Oval pins may be turned slightly to take up wear of the bushing. Once all the above is done, we will turn our attention to the coupler action (if present) and the keyboard. Pilot hole sizes differ somewhat depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, but a pilot hole is important, and tables are available at any hardware store to guide the selection of pilot-hole sizes for the typically-found screw sizes. Keys at the extremes of the keyboard are most commonly marked, but many others may gather inscriptions over the years. First, place the piece of felt for notes 1-13 on a flat surface, and hold it in place with masking tape at the ends. These are often seen as daunting tasks, and at first glance it may seem to be difficult. With the lower action back in the case, it's time to pay some attention to the gasket between the foundation and the upper action. Apply a "wipe or two" of bees-wax just before re-driving the screws. The hinges in the reservoir and exhausters you may find to be leather, or heavy canvas. After completing the sanding, blow off loose dust with the air blast, and set the keys aside, keeping them in order. You want next to take out the "upper action" in its entirety. When it *is* thoroughly dry, trim off any excess fabric with a razor blade and straightedge. Get right down to the wood! Too much friction can generate enough heat to ignite it. The assembly upon which the keys sit and "do their thing". Then put one point against a firm surface and carefully allow the spring to open up. (Of course, some reeds all but fall out by themselves: your mileage may vary). To encourage the restoration and preservation of extant instruments by members and the general public. Working through the still-open ends of the reservoir, insert the springs *carefully*: you will have marked them earlier to know which one is which, and which point impinges which part of the reservoir. front-to-back, and to keep the key upright. In most cases, the valves are "retained" by this spring's point dropping into a divot on the valve. The OHS Pipe Organ Database has a new home. Leather can be had from many sources. Arrange all to suit yourself. Old screws often found in reed organs can be made of rather softer material than one finds today. Just pressing the fabric down lightly into the pattern shows where it should (and should not) go. Another way is to use a very straight length of thin metal clamped in position such that it will prevent the blade from wandering too close to the mute itself. I have an air compressor and hose with a pistol-grip "shooter" on the end. Jim Tyler wrote the following article that will help you through your restoration - be sure to read it first and then reference back to it throughout your first restoration. Both of these unfortunate results can be avoided by "knowing when to stop": this knowledge comes with practice. It is always better to leave a screw "on the loose side", since it can always be tightened a trifle more if necessary, for once a screw has been over-tightened, the damage is done and can't readily be un-done. Bear in mind that the felt you are replacing is likely a hundred years old, and that you expect your replacement to last just as long! As the pressure developed to make ROs cheaper, the style evolved that used a single piece of rubber cloth, often with ribs inside. Following the second rinse. Next, lay either #1 or #13 on top of this felt, and align the mark you made with the edge of the felt. "Front, lower, bass"; "rear, upper, treble", for example - whatever works for you. Once you have the knack of hot glue, you will wonder how you ever got along without it. The shorter the time, the poorer the work was done, and it will be necessary to treadle rapidly to get the organ to play satisfactorily. If the key drop overall is too shallow a thinner thumper felt is usually the best answer. If you are with me to this point, the upper action is well along. Almost any heavy card-board (*not* corrugated!) Conklin Reed Organ & History Museum: Reed Organs - See 3 traveler reviews, 4 candid photos, and great deals for Hanover, MI, at Tripadvisor. (I once removed well over a hundred tacks, including thumb-tacks, from a 10" x 10" exhauster on a M&H "Baby". If you have done your work well, it is likely to take several minutes for the reservoir to open up. Note especially which strips of rubber-cloth overlap which others: this will give you a clue as to the order these parts were wrapped in. [How does this fool thing work, anyway? Complete. In this situation, it's necessary to punch holes in the thumper felt - it is not practical to "poke" holes through it.
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