If there is a vapor barrier already, then presumably the concrete would be dry as it is protected from below and able to try into the air above. And, the assembly shown in that image includes a 6 mil poly barrier for radon gas protection, but worth noting is that 2 inches is about the thickness when EPS rigid insulation acts as a vapor barrier anyway. Product Used: 3.5" Flanged Furring Channel, 2" Z Furring, and 1.5" Z Furring Details: Installation includes, flanged furring channel and closed cell spray foam on the poured foundation, along with z furring and foam board in the stair wells to conserve space I am no suggesting you lift what you did, but I may add a step - a layer of 6 mil poly ahead of time. If you keep the basement relative humidity low enough (under 50) you shouldn't have a problem, there is a bigger concern with moisture moving inwards than moisture moving outwards, that's the reason for the slightly more permeable 'vapour barrier' would would more accurately be called a 'vapour retarder'. I get where you're going with that thought and its a good question, but no, the drywall should not be at any increased risk without a vapour barrier. There are not a lot of reported cases of this, but when it goes wrong it goes very wrong. Here are some posts from our Green Building Guide Pages that may help. It does involve some hard work and heavy lifting, but the end result will not only be a more efficient and comfortable home, but a more valuable one at a time of resale and less likely to create the conditions that are best avoided - high humidity plus likely condensation points - both factors in producing a moldy, unhealthy basement. Molds tend to grow on unclean surfaces as well so regularly clean the studs. Better is if moisture in a wall can dry to the interior (since it can't dry to the exterior), and then it can be handled by ventilation equipment or dehumidifiers. Framing is necessary to provide a stable base for both interior and exterior wall coverings. However, I was wondering if this technique can still be used if a waterproof membrane was installed on the exterior of the foundation wall. Screw both sheets together and have carpet installed on top? Yes, something along those lines would work. That is correct about the wall assembly, but I have no poly on the walls. And if you do choose to spray foam your basement walls, there are currently two companies that have switched to much less harmful blowing agents, Demilec and Elastochem, so check with potential installers to see which brand they spray. And unfortunately for many homeowners, the way basements were finished for the last few decades is about as logical as jogging in a raincoat. Latex paint would offer some resisitance to moisture, but for the effort and cost I would propose you just do it with poly, then the roxul. Like Bluwood it is also mold resistant. Poly vapor barriers on the interior surface of a basement wall are not at all a good idea, it will trap the moisture. The stud wall is not yet insulated or drywalled (it was this way when we purchased the home). only install studs & leave it like that? When exposed to flames, PKboard will produce a dense layer of protective char that insulates the panel surface significantly reducing the ability of fire to start and spread. If you don't have a vapour barrier below the slab (which was not a practice done in 1944) then the concrete will constantly be wicking moisture from the groudn below. Install the Studs. Wood has several advantages over metal studs. I am refinishing my basement and put in 2x4 studs and 5/8" mold resistant drywall for the walls. Flange or leg sizes for both studs and track range from 1 inch all the way up to 3 inch. P.S. Put 23/32 plywood down. It would have been still better if the toxins just stayed there but unfortunately, that’s close to a fairy tale. If you have an issue, and the humidity levels are off the scale, then chances are you've got a moldy basement even if you can't see it yet... Vapou barrier is not for moisture but to keep the temperature from outside and inside balance or you will get condensation and mold. The word 'breathe' is also perhaps not the right word since it implies air movement, and that is anothter thing you don't want in an insulated wall assemly. However, if your basement has a certain musty smell, or telltale black mildew and mold marks in corners or behind furniture, for peace of mind consider buying a hydrometer to measure your indoor relative humidity, which will cost you maybe $20 to $30 at most hardware stores. Thanks for your help. Be very careful how and where you install wood and fiberglass insulation in basements (If you must), and be sure they won't see prolonged exposure to moisture or contact with humid surfaces if you don't want them to go moldy. since those panels butt up against each other with the vapor control layer at the bottom, there is no way to seal them. Personally, I wouldn't let someone spray foam in my house without some pretty good references that I followed up. It cost me about an extra $500 for the lumber to do it that way. As the EPA say, somewhere in the range of 35 to 50% relative humidity is generally assumed to be the best for avoiding most health risks and irritants. Despite the fact that interior vapour barriers in below grade wall assemblies are commonplace, frustrated building scientists insist that installing them is the worst thing you could possibly do down there. That said - we had a woman who is extremely sensitive to chemicals come and visit our Edelweiss House and she was fine with it. One more question. To sum up, mold on wood studs is dangerous and should be removed before it turns disastrous for you and your property. You may have an exterior damp-proofing spray on foundation walls but likely not a proper drainage mat and perimeter drain or basement flood prevention measures. And on a slightly different topic, I would be cautious about how much insulation you add to the interior of a cinder block foundation. Rigid insulation board against concrete adds R value, breaks the thermal bridge and raises the temperature of the stud wall, which helps prevent moist air from condensing. The obvious difference is it needs to weight bear. I'm looking to lay carpet down on the slab without radiant heat below it and am concerned about both moisture and the low ambient floor temperature. And what should the next course of action be to correct this?? Measure between the plates at each layout mark and cut each stud to length. Adding another vapor barrier wouldn’t be a problem for that reason, but also because there is nothing in a floor that can rot. Whether you need drywall, insulation, acoustical tile or construction accessories, we've got your jobsite needs covered. Correct that if any of it is wrong, and, do you have a 6-mil poly barrier sealing the whole wall together? That moisture isn't going to escape to the exterior so you are best to let it escape to the interior where it can be managed, otherwise it will rot all the framing. Can Eating Mold Kill You? I would recommend starting with Joe Lstiburek, the most recognized name in building science. Mold, rot and termite protection. I suspect that the concrete isn’t actually that well-sealed, and even if your foundation wall has a membrane or bituminous spray, it’s unlikely the footing was sealed, and being porous, the concrete will continue to wick moisture from the ground. I am going to finish the basement myself. What we write in these pages is meant to inspire ideas and solutions, not fear and anxiety. It would take a lot of screws to keep flat. Meaning, the last thing you should do in a basement is put a 6-mil poly vapor barrier after the studs, which only serves to keep walls wet, not keep them dry. I don't want to use treated wood as batten due to I know how it curls when drying. Being sprayed directly onto concrete walls, it ensures an even and total protection. Non polluting, non hazardous and no off gassing. Yeah, go for it. You would be better off using a "mold-resistant" drywall however. SPUF is quite expensive; so rigid insulation panels and a 2x4 wall with batt insulation can be a much more affordable option - but you need to know the right techniques for a succesful and mold-free wall assembly for a basement application - read on! So moisture could migrate through the seams between each of those panels and cause the OSB to deteriorate over time. That isn't a big surprise since MDF is a heavily processed wood product very susceptible to moisture damage, so it can be a bit of a canary in the coal mine in terms of basement moisture damage since it will show damage quicker than solid wood and most other process wood finishing materials.
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