B. a7III better than a7II, but they both are way better than APS-C. As with all CIPA ratings, the performance is likely to be lower with very wide or long lenses. Have a look. "if I shoot my FF with f/4.2 the scene is darker than the same one shot at f/2.8 on APS-C." - That's because you are not using equivalent ISO values (and you should). @Al wants a bagelMy answer was to GrantBFoto and was a response to getting an unobtrusive camera... Nice cam, but it's overpriced for what if offers compared to competition today. The 65mm T2 completes Vazen's set of anamorphic lenses for the Micro Four Thirds system. @ecka84: about the AF stuck in the fence, yes, it's probably asking too much but at least on the E-M1 II the AF locks on the animal, especially if it's moving. the X-H1 is too big for me, I am gonna wait for the xt-3. Only FF gets much more pixels at the same pixels density and gathers much more information for producing higher quality images. Let's take the Fuji 50mm f2 for instance, is there an equivalent that is that sharp, small, light, and cheap (did I mention WR) on Sony's side?? Have a look at our initial sample gallery taken on a full-frame Sony body. Fujifilm was one of the first brands to exploit the ISO-invariant properties of the sensors it uses through its Dynamic Range modes (The DR modes offer multiple ways of delivering ISO settings using different amounts of hardware amplification to capture additional highlight information). The Canon RF 800mm F11's unique combination of telephoto reach, affordability and light weight will likely enable even more people to do the same. I was a little disappointed by the 84% Silver. They are coming to photography gear testing web site (like DPR) and they don't want to hear facts, but rather woo woo fairy tales about how nothing matters. What’s the best camera for around $2000? for myself , as a dslr there is little compelling , but i do acknowledge that the af prowess and general character of the d500 as a pro apsc nikon is undisputed, 600 mm fov equiv [400mm 2.8] is some scary fast reach ina a camera of any type, since i dont have an interest in nikon bodies , i will retask my nikon love in lenses , and ive got a good amount of ais and afd that i use on my fuji xpro2 and pen f and speedboosters for both [ hollow adapters too to double effective fl [100mm is 150mm on a hollow adapter ]. . Well, it's better because of RAW, just like having better parts in $5000 Mac, than $1000 PC. And that's the whole point of equivalence. Despite being based around the same sensor and processor, the X-H1 promises significantly improved video performance, with the range of shooting options extended to include DCI as well as UHD 4K shooting, bitrates up to 200 Mbps and the ability to record F-Log footage internally. Equivalence tells you where systems perform similarly, not just where they're different. Slightly higher res than Oly, better colorimetry, and access to decent video and those lovely new MK lenses. The APS-C just can't deliver (honestly, it rarely does). the body is not big but if you want to use it to its full potential, it needs to be used with the battery grip. Strong is only available from ISO 800 or higher. Sample Images Intro Grip Specs Performance Compared User's Guide Recommendations More Fujifilm X-H1 (23.8 oz./674g with battery and card, $999 new or about $850 used if you know How to Win at eBay) and Fujifilm 16mm f/2.8. A 1" cut out of a FF chip have identical light per square area. Also on the 100-400 Fuji versus Sony, the Fuji is the same weight as the more expensive Sony but a lot longer effective focal length. Fujifilm is moving in the write direction and they listen to the users. Of course there will be less noise on the bigger sensor depending again on technology and size of photosites. buy the A7 II that has the same AF but the option to force PDAF..."Just look at those soft and waxy Fuji samples" stop looking at samples and try a camera. I'm a working Stills photographer on film and TV projects, and can tell you--after years with high end Canon cameras enclosed in Sound Blimps to prevent mirror slaps interfering with audio while rolling--that the Fuji xt2 was a game changer for all of us who do this job. Or keep the original, which is equivalent to XF35F1.2 (you can only dream about at $200). It is overpriced no matter how you look at it. But I can handhold the E-M1 II + 12-100mm for 3s at least (some say 5s) and get a sharp picture when the FF would produce a blurry picture to match the exposure... Also, is it worth spending $2000 to $3000 for the camera (Sony prices as a base), $2500 for the 16-35mm 2.8, $2000 for the 24-70mm 2.8 and $2500 for the 70-200mm 2.8 when you don't get paid from the 'superior' photos you're taking and you're never making any big prints? More light = potential for cleaner images (and, unless your sensors is terrible, then actually cleaner images). Like its sibling, the X-H1 offers a series of focus peaking options (color and intensity) but no zebra warnings for setting exposure, beyond the 'Live View Highlight Warning' option that indicates an unspecified and unspecifiable brightness. There are people happy with RX10 IV, m43, and even Nikon 1 system. The a7 sensor underperforms while the a6500 (and X-T20, since it's likely to be essentially the same sensor) performs very well. Hmmmm.... Kind've freaked out by the size of this thing, bigger and heavier than a Sony A7 III FF and substantially larger and heavier than Fuji X-T2. Crops do not have ISOs equivalent to FF ISO 100 or ISO 64.Your theories really are fairy tales. Plus, Nikon and Canon DSLRs continue to perform exceptionally well when size and sound aren't an issue. Perhaps you are not ready for it yet. Maybe its contrast seems better because it's darker. In addition, firmware v2.0 also practically eliminated sudden jumps when panning the camera, which was an issue with the initial firmware. It's a beast really. Still, despite its inferior processor and AF system, the X-H1 has an overall excellent AF performance and accuracy. Though it's worth noting that small sensors tend to be more efficient, since they tend to have more advanced technology than large sensors (which inherit older technologies as the fabrication lines are replaced with finer-scale ones for the next-gen of smartphone sensors). Let's be honest, size matters and it makes a difference (expensive one). It's the price issue. It focuses fast and accurately in both daylight and low-light conditions. Also it's still smaller/lighter than an actual DSLR (like 7D series,) and (roughly) the same size/weight as the GH5/S. To me it's like saying I won't be the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 because this is actually a 80-300mm f5.6 so it won't be better than my Canon 75-300mm 4-5.6. This E-M1 II + 12-100mm fits the bill for me when I'm travelling and can bring only a small photobag. There are those who do Presidential media conferences, concerts, golf tournaments and weddings with strict noise requirements who fully appreciate the silent shooting and great eye focus. Sorry Terry. if it would have cost 1500€, people would want it for 1200e... To my mind, the price is correct considering the feature and build. I see you have absolutely no idea how it actually works. I think this X-H1 with a grip you can hold onto will be perfect. Noise not the same, DoF not the same, quality not the same, contrast not the same, price not the same, DR not the same, etc. The fact that there is a FF 24-70F2.8, doesn't mean that you have to use it. Fujifilm X-T4 vs X-H1: should you upgrade or hunt for a bargain? Something that might not be welcomed by many. He can't afford it.2. The camera features a high-quality full magnesium-alloy construction from front to back, making it a real workhorse. - Total nonsense! I think buying a Sony, or at least licking the Sony spec sheet really makes people stupid. *Fujifilm says the camera will give up to 5.5EV of stabilization when paired with non-stabilized XF lenses. I think the penchant for ruggedized/weatherproof cameras built to drive 10-penny nails has gotten extreme. If you are used to Nikon’s one-click zoom feature on advanced DSLRs, you can do the same thing on the X-H1 by simply pressing the rotary dial while playing back images, which is very nice. I am strongly interested in IBIS for use of non-stabilized lens but also I would like to have a decent AF for action shooting. Setting aside current Fuji owners, fill in the blank: "You're likely to switch to/add the X-H1, because the X-H1 offers (blank) that your current camera or another competing camera doesn't." I bet it will be over $2000. "Good enough" is not a quantity that we can actually compare. Look at the histogram. Not about tactile fetish experience that many are suggesting by saying "just try it". Once zoomed in, you can rotate the dial to zoom out and the joystick allows you to move around the image. Their jpg engine plus auto functionality makes them great for the smartphone set and their ergonomics with analog-like dials appeals to the old-school enthusiasts. No, I would not buy a XF 16-50 f1.8 because obviously I could find a better option on the A7 II. It's not illogical, if you understand what the scores and ratings mean: https://m.dpreview.com/articles/4416254604/camera-scores-ratings-explained, you got me curious,so i read dprs on the scoring logic[.thanks for posting that bill.] Well, you can believe it if you want, and please try any recent APS-C body with a decent lens. Here is a casual shot with no breathing technique: https://s20.postimg.cc/en6h3wvgd/P5181335.jpg- 2.5s SS now with something to lean onhttps://s20.postimg.cc/9oiypdzd9/P5181332.jpg- 3.2s SS is my limit, some claim to manage 5s but I wonder if they look at 100%https://s20.postimg.cc/ijjszw8q5/P5181338.jpg. The glass itself has its limits. Like the 28F2 and 85F1.8. I see lots of people using 16-50F2.8 type of zooms on crop and I feel sorry for them when they take a silly advice to spend $5000 and upgrade to 24-70F2.8 and 70-200F2.8 while keeping their crop cameras. At its most simple, it's because the same F-number gives the same number of photons per sq mm, so if you can project a larger version of the image onto a larger sensor, while maintaining the same number of photons per sq mm, then you get more photons describing every element in the scene. Your experience as diverse as it may sound maybe your own opinion, everyone here thinks they are an expert :). With 91 focus points (up to 325 points), the camera has a phase detection AF area that covers 50% (side to side) and 75% (top to bottom) of the frame to achieve fast and accurate autofocus. Phlebotomy Interview Questions, Benchmade Saddle Mountain Hunter Sheath, Bdo Innocent Sailor Chart, Fujifilm X-t100 Specs, Information Technology Salary In Malaysia, State Table And State Diagram Pdf, United Country Real Estate Lake Palestine Waterfront Homes For Sale, Tiktok Strawberry Challenge, " /> B. a7III better than a7II, but they both are way better than APS-C. As with all CIPA ratings, the performance is likely to be lower with very wide or long lenses. Have a look. "if I shoot my FF with f/4.2 the scene is darker than the same one shot at f/2.8 on APS-C." - That's because you are not using equivalent ISO values (and you should). @Al wants a bagelMy answer was to GrantBFoto and was a response to getting an unobtrusive camera... Nice cam, but it's overpriced for what if offers compared to competition today. The 65mm T2 completes Vazen's set of anamorphic lenses for the Micro Four Thirds system. @ecka84: about the AF stuck in the fence, yes, it's probably asking too much but at least on the E-M1 II the AF locks on the animal, especially if it's moving. the X-H1 is too big for me, I am gonna wait for the xt-3. Only FF gets much more pixels at the same pixels density and gathers much more information for producing higher quality images. Let's take the Fuji 50mm f2 for instance, is there an equivalent that is that sharp, small, light, and cheap (did I mention WR) on Sony's side?? Have a look at our initial sample gallery taken on a full-frame Sony body. Fujifilm was one of the first brands to exploit the ISO-invariant properties of the sensors it uses through its Dynamic Range modes (The DR modes offer multiple ways of delivering ISO settings using different amounts of hardware amplification to capture additional highlight information). The Canon RF 800mm F11's unique combination of telephoto reach, affordability and light weight will likely enable even more people to do the same. I was a little disappointed by the 84% Silver. They are coming to photography gear testing web site (like DPR) and they don't want to hear facts, but rather woo woo fairy tales about how nothing matters. What’s the best camera for around $2000? for myself , as a dslr there is little compelling , but i do acknowledge that the af prowess and general character of the d500 as a pro apsc nikon is undisputed, 600 mm fov equiv [400mm 2.8] is some scary fast reach ina a camera of any type, since i dont have an interest in nikon bodies , i will retask my nikon love in lenses , and ive got a good amount of ais and afd that i use on my fuji xpro2 and pen f and speedboosters for both [ hollow adapters too to double effective fl [100mm is 150mm on a hollow adapter ]. . Well, it's better because of RAW, just like having better parts in $5000 Mac, than $1000 PC. And that's the whole point of equivalence. Despite being based around the same sensor and processor, the X-H1 promises significantly improved video performance, with the range of shooting options extended to include DCI as well as UHD 4K shooting, bitrates up to 200 Mbps and the ability to record F-Log footage internally. Equivalence tells you where systems perform similarly, not just where they're different. Slightly higher res than Oly, better colorimetry, and access to decent video and those lovely new MK lenses. The APS-C just can't deliver (honestly, it rarely does). the body is not big but if you want to use it to its full potential, it needs to be used with the battery grip. Strong is only available from ISO 800 or higher. Sample Images Intro Grip Specs Performance Compared User's Guide Recommendations More Fujifilm X-H1 (23.8 oz./674g with battery and card, $999 new or about $850 used if you know How to Win at eBay) and Fujifilm 16mm f/2.8. A 1" cut out of a FF chip have identical light per square area. Also on the 100-400 Fuji versus Sony, the Fuji is the same weight as the more expensive Sony but a lot longer effective focal length. Fujifilm is moving in the write direction and they listen to the users. Of course there will be less noise on the bigger sensor depending again on technology and size of photosites. buy the A7 II that has the same AF but the option to force PDAF..."Just look at those soft and waxy Fuji samples" stop looking at samples and try a camera. I'm a working Stills photographer on film and TV projects, and can tell you--after years with high end Canon cameras enclosed in Sound Blimps to prevent mirror slaps interfering with audio while rolling--that the Fuji xt2 was a game changer for all of us who do this job. Or keep the original, which is equivalent to XF35F1.2 (you can only dream about at $200). It is overpriced no matter how you look at it. But I can handhold the E-M1 II + 12-100mm for 3s at least (some say 5s) and get a sharp picture when the FF would produce a blurry picture to match the exposure... Also, is it worth spending $2000 to $3000 for the camera (Sony prices as a base), $2500 for the 16-35mm 2.8, $2000 for the 24-70mm 2.8 and $2500 for the 70-200mm 2.8 when you don't get paid from the 'superior' photos you're taking and you're never making any big prints? More light = potential for cleaner images (and, unless your sensors is terrible, then actually cleaner images). Like its sibling, the X-H1 offers a series of focus peaking options (color and intensity) but no zebra warnings for setting exposure, beyond the 'Live View Highlight Warning' option that indicates an unspecified and unspecifiable brightness. There are people happy with RX10 IV, m43, and even Nikon 1 system. The a7 sensor underperforms while the a6500 (and X-T20, since it's likely to be essentially the same sensor) performs very well. Hmmmm.... Kind've freaked out by the size of this thing, bigger and heavier than a Sony A7 III FF and substantially larger and heavier than Fuji X-T2. Crops do not have ISOs equivalent to FF ISO 100 or ISO 64.Your theories really are fairy tales. Plus, Nikon and Canon DSLRs continue to perform exceptionally well when size and sound aren't an issue. Perhaps you are not ready for it yet. Maybe its contrast seems better because it's darker. In addition, firmware v2.0 also practically eliminated sudden jumps when panning the camera, which was an issue with the initial firmware. It's a beast really. Still, despite its inferior processor and AF system, the X-H1 has an overall excellent AF performance and accuracy. Though it's worth noting that small sensors tend to be more efficient, since they tend to have more advanced technology than large sensors (which inherit older technologies as the fabrication lines are replaced with finer-scale ones for the next-gen of smartphone sensors). Let's be honest, size matters and it makes a difference (expensive one). It's the price issue. It focuses fast and accurately in both daylight and low-light conditions. Also it's still smaller/lighter than an actual DSLR (like 7D series,) and (roughly) the same size/weight as the GH5/S. To me it's like saying I won't be the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 because this is actually a 80-300mm f5.6 so it won't be better than my Canon 75-300mm 4-5.6. This E-M1 II + 12-100mm fits the bill for me when I'm travelling and can bring only a small photobag. There are those who do Presidential media conferences, concerts, golf tournaments and weddings with strict noise requirements who fully appreciate the silent shooting and great eye focus. Sorry Terry. if it would have cost 1500€, people would want it for 1200e... To my mind, the price is correct considering the feature and build. I see you have absolutely no idea how it actually works. I think this X-H1 with a grip you can hold onto will be perfect. Noise not the same, DoF not the same, quality not the same, contrast not the same, price not the same, DR not the same, etc. The fact that there is a FF 24-70F2.8, doesn't mean that you have to use it. Fujifilm X-T4 vs X-H1: should you upgrade or hunt for a bargain? Something that might not be welcomed by many. He can't afford it.2. The camera features a high-quality full magnesium-alloy construction from front to back, making it a real workhorse. - Total nonsense! I think buying a Sony, or at least licking the Sony spec sheet really makes people stupid. *Fujifilm says the camera will give up to 5.5EV of stabilization when paired with non-stabilized XF lenses. I think the penchant for ruggedized/weatherproof cameras built to drive 10-penny nails has gotten extreme. If you are used to Nikon’s one-click zoom feature on advanced DSLRs, you can do the same thing on the X-H1 by simply pressing the rotary dial while playing back images, which is very nice. I am strongly interested in IBIS for use of non-stabilized lens but also I would like to have a decent AF for action shooting. Setting aside current Fuji owners, fill in the blank: "You're likely to switch to/add the X-H1, because the X-H1 offers (blank) that your current camera or another competing camera doesn't." I bet it will be over $2000. "Good enough" is not a quantity that we can actually compare. Look at the histogram. Not about tactile fetish experience that many are suggesting by saying "just try it". Once zoomed in, you can rotate the dial to zoom out and the joystick allows you to move around the image. Their jpg engine plus auto functionality makes them great for the smartphone set and their ergonomics with analog-like dials appeals to the old-school enthusiasts. No, I would not buy a XF 16-50 f1.8 because obviously I could find a better option on the A7 II. It's not illogical, if you understand what the scores and ratings mean: https://m.dpreview.com/articles/4416254604/camera-scores-ratings-explained, you got me curious,so i read dprs on the scoring logic[.thanks for posting that bill.] Well, you can believe it if you want, and please try any recent APS-C body with a decent lens. Here is a casual shot with no breathing technique: https://s20.postimg.cc/en6h3wvgd/P5181335.jpg- 2.5s SS now with something to lean onhttps://s20.postimg.cc/9oiypdzd9/P5181332.jpg- 3.2s SS is my limit, some claim to manage 5s but I wonder if they look at 100%https://s20.postimg.cc/ijjszw8q5/P5181338.jpg. The glass itself has its limits. Like the 28F2 and 85F1.8. I see lots of people using 16-50F2.8 type of zooms on crop and I feel sorry for them when they take a silly advice to spend $5000 and upgrade to 24-70F2.8 and 70-200F2.8 while keeping their crop cameras. At its most simple, it's because the same F-number gives the same number of photons per sq mm, so if you can project a larger version of the image onto a larger sensor, while maintaining the same number of photons per sq mm, then you get more photons describing every element in the scene. Your experience as diverse as it may sound maybe your own opinion, everyone here thinks they are an expert :). With 91 focus points (up to 325 points), the camera has a phase detection AF area that covers 50% (side to side) and 75% (top to bottom) of the frame to achieve fast and accurate autofocus. Phlebotomy Interview Questions, Benchmade Saddle Mountain Hunter Sheath, Bdo Innocent Sailor Chart, Fujifilm X-t100 Specs, Information Technology Salary In Malaysia, State Table And State Diagram Pdf, United Country Real Estate Lake Palestine Waterfront Homes For Sale, Tiktok Strawberry Challenge, " />
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fujifilm x h1 autofocus

Read our full review to find out how it performs. Though I have always thought the Silver and Gold labels are silly and are meaningless to me. We can change the requirements forever, and obviously on each sides of the discussion, to match the point we're trying to make... Anyways it seems we're just different users with different needs. I've never heard Dpreview speaking of a "significant disadvantage" of APS-C versus FF. The problem with MFT is that they start at APS-C's ISO 400 levels :). Big companies would rather sell you overpriced crop optics, than cheap FF alternatives, like 10-24/3.5-4.5 over FF 16-35/5.6-8, or F4 over FF F6.3, which are essentially (proportionally) the same thing. Ultimately, the larger sensor 'sees' a larger proportion of the imaging circle. thats true the d500 isn't as compelling a camera, and is large and unweildy as dslrs tend to be. Well, maybe 1s is the safe limit for some, which is great. Identical pixel level DR, noise, texture, but since the 5DSR gets more light, after downsampling to 7DII size, there's at least 1+ stop cleaner noise and 1 stop higher dynamic range. (I am not looking for weatherproofing, but the sturdiness of a camera like X-H1 stands out, compared to Sony FF variety..), But, staying on the topic at hand, i.e. The full frame sensor sees the world through a 4.5mm diameter aperture. It is a choice. Something to bear in mind if you are worried about the size. We have so many good choices now, and the only thing keeping us from making excellent photos is our own skill. About the 15mm 1.7, I think at its sharpest it's a close call between this and the Ricoh GR (dxomark is saying sharper with a 20mpix sensor, less so with the older sensors, if dxo can be used as reference, mea culpa). Some will think superb means scoring highest MTF values in reviews, they rely on numbers and fact, they don't lie. To them I say, "Rock on! That's something. About equivalence I suggest you read the article made by DPR on the topic. Adding the top panel LCD on the X-H in place of the EC dial seemed redundant to me since all of that information can be on the two existing displays (LCD and viewfinder). However I agree when it comes to longer lenses like the 50-140mm f2.8, I bought a cheap Canon 70-200mm instead that works very well on the A7 II. Those who prefer the non blown out rendering will like it. Keep in mind that the dual-mode only works when you are in manual focus mode. The main attribute of mirrorless, to me, is smaller and lighter and Fuji seems to be going the wrong direction with this design. > B. a7III better than a7II, but they both are way better than APS-C. As with all CIPA ratings, the performance is likely to be lower with very wide or long lenses. Have a look. "if I shoot my FF with f/4.2 the scene is darker than the same one shot at f/2.8 on APS-C." - That's because you are not using equivalent ISO values (and you should). @Al wants a bagelMy answer was to GrantBFoto and was a response to getting an unobtrusive camera... Nice cam, but it's overpriced for what if offers compared to competition today. The 65mm T2 completes Vazen's set of anamorphic lenses for the Micro Four Thirds system. @ecka84: about the AF stuck in the fence, yes, it's probably asking too much but at least on the E-M1 II the AF locks on the animal, especially if it's moving. the X-H1 is too big for me, I am gonna wait for the xt-3. Only FF gets much more pixels at the same pixels density and gathers much more information for producing higher quality images. Let's take the Fuji 50mm f2 for instance, is there an equivalent that is that sharp, small, light, and cheap (did I mention WR) on Sony's side?? Have a look at our initial sample gallery taken on a full-frame Sony body. Fujifilm was one of the first brands to exploit the ISO-invariant properties of the sensors it uses through its Dynamic Range modes (The DR modes offer multiple ways of delivering ISO settings using different amounts of hardware amplification to capture additional highlight information). The Canon RF 800mm F11's unique combination of telephoto reach, affordability and light weight will likely enable even more people to do the same. I was a little disappointed by the 84% Silver. They are coming to photography gear testing web site (like DPR) and they don't want to hear facts, but rather woo woo fairy tales about how nothing matters. What’s the best camera for around $2000? for myself , as a dslr there is little compelling , but i do acknowledge that the af prowess and general character of the d500 as a pro apsc nikon is undisputed, 600 mm fov equiv [400mm 2.8] is some scary fast reach ina a camera of any type, since i dont have an interest in nikon bodies , i will retask my nikon love in lenses , and ive got a good amount of ais and afd that i use on my fuji xpro2 and pen f and speedboosters for both [ hollow adapters too to double effective fl [100mm is 150mm on a hollow adapter ]. . Well, it's better because of RAW, just like having better parts in $5000 Mac, than $1000 PC. And that's the whole point of equivalence. Despite being based around the same sensor and processor, the X-H1 promises significantly improved video performance, with the range of shooting options extended to include DCI as well as UHD 4K shooting, bitrates up to 200 Mbps and the ability to record F-Log footage internally. Equivalence tells you where systems perform similarly, not just where they're different. Slightly higher res than Oly, better colorimetry, and access to decent video and those lovely new MK lenses. The APS-C just can't deliver (honestly, it rarely does). the body is not big but if you want to use it to its full potential, it needs to be used with the battery grip. Strong is only available from ISO 800 or higher. Sample Images Intro Grip Specs Performance Compared User's Guide Recommendations More Fujifilm X-H1 (23.8 oz./674g with battery and card, $999 new or about $850 used if you know How to Win at eBay) and Fujifilm 16mm f/2.8. A 1" cut out of a FF chip have identical light per square area. Also on the 100-400 Fuji versus Sony, the Fuji is the same weight as the more expensive Sony but a lot longer effective focal length. Fujifilm is moving in the write direction and they listen to the users. Of course there will be less noise on the bigger sensor depending again on technology and size of photosites. buy the A7 II that has the same AF but the option to force PDAF..."Just look at those soft and waxy Fuji samples" stop looking at samples and try a camera. I'm a working Stills photographer on film and TV projects, and can tell you--after years with high end Canon cameras enclosed in Sound Blimps to prevent mirror slaps interfering with audio while rolling--that the Fuji xt2 was a game changer for all of us who do this job. Or keep the original, which is equivalent to XF35F1.2 (you can only dream about at $200). It is overpriced no matter how you look at it. But I can handhold the E-M1 II + 12-100mm for 3s at least (some say 5s) and get a sharp picture when the FF would produce a blurry picture to match the exposure... Also, is it worth spending $2000 to $3000 for the camera (Sony prices as a base), $2500 for the 16-35mm 2.8, $2000 for the 24-70mm 2.8 and $2500 for the 70-200mm 2.8 when you don't get paid from the 'superior' photos you're taking and you're never making any big prints? More light = potential for cleaner images (and, unless your sensors is terrible, then actually cleaner images). Like its sibling, the X-H1 offers a series of focus peaking options (color and intensity) but no zebra warnings for setting exposure, beyond the 'Live View Highlight Warning' option that indicates an unspecified and unspecifiable brightness. There are people happy with RX10 IV, m43, and even Nikon 1 system. The a7 sensor underperforms while the a6500 (and X-T20, since it's likely to be essentially the same sensor) performs very well. Hmmmm.... Kind've freaked out by the size of this thing, bigger and heavier than a Sony A7 III FF and substantially larger and heavier than Fuji X-T2. Crops do not have ISOs equivalent to FF ISO 100 or ISO 64.Your theories really are fairy tales. Plus, Nikon and Canon DSLRs continue to perform exceptionally well when size and sound aren't an issue. Perhaps you are not ready for it yet. Maybe its contrast seems better because it's darker. In addition, firmware v2.0 also practically eliminated sudden jumps when panning the camera, which was an issue with the initial firmware. It's a beast really. Still, despite its inferior processor and AF system, the X-H1 has an overall excellent AF performance and accuracy. Though it's worth noting that small sensors tend to be more efficient, since they tend to have more advanced technology than large sensors (which inherit older technologies as the fabrication lines are replaced with finer-scale ones for the next-gen of smartphone sensors). Let's be honest, size matters and it makes a difference (expensive one). It's the price issue. It focuses fast and accurately in both daylight and low-light conditions. Also it's still smaller/lighter than an actual DSLR (like 7D series,) and (roughly) the same size/weight as the GH5/S. To me it's like saying I won't be the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 because this is actually a 80-300mm f5.6 so it won't be better than my Canon 75-300mm 4-5.6. This E-M1 II + 12-100mm fits the bill for me when I'm travelling and can bring only a small photobag. There are those who do Presidential media conferences, concerts, golf tournaments and weddings with strict noise requirements who fully appreciate the silent shooting and great eye focus. Sorry Terry. if it would have cost 1500€, people would want it for 1200e... To my mind, the price is correct considering the feature and build. I see you have absolutely no idea how it actually works. I think this X-H1 with a grip you can hold onto will be perfect. Noise not the same, DoF not the same, quality not the same, contrast not the same, price not the same, DR not the same, etc. The fact that there is a FF 24-70F2.8, doesn't mean that you have to use it. Fujifilm X-T4 vs X-H1: should you upgrade or hunt for a bargain? Something that might not be welcomed by many. He can't afford it.2. The camera features a high-quality full magnesium-alloy construction from front to back, making it a real workhorse. - Total nonsense! I think buying a Sony, or at least licking the Sony spec sheet really makes people stupid. *Fujifilm says the camera will give up to 5.5EV of stabilization when paired with non-stabilized XF lenses. I think the penchant for ruggedized/weatherproof cameras built to drive 10-penny nails has gotten extreme. If you are used to Nikon’s one-click zoom feature on advanced DSLRs, you can do the same thing on the X-H1 by simply pressing the rotary dial while playing back images, which is very nice. I am strongly interested in IBIS for use of non-stabilized lens but also I would like to have a decent AF for action shooting. Setting aside current Fuji owners, fill in the blank: "You're likely to switch to/add the X-H1, because the X-H1 offers (blank) that your current camera or another competing camera doesn't." I bet it will be over $2000. "Good enough" is not a quantity that we can actually compare. Look at the histogram. Not about tactile fetish experience that many are suggesting by saying "just try it". Once zoomed in, you can rotate the dial to zoom out and the joystick allows you to move around the image. Their jpg engine plus auto functionality makes them great for the smartphone set and their ergonomics with analog-like dials appeals to the old-school enthusiasts. No, I would not buy a XF 16-50 f1.8 because obviously I could find a better option on the A7 II. It's not illogical, if you understand what the scores and ratings mean: https://m.dpreview.com/articles/4416254604/camera-scores-ratings-explained, you got me curious,so i read dprs on the scoring logic[.thanks for posting that bill.] Well, you can believe it if you want, and please try any recent APS-C body with a decent lens. Here is a casual shot with no breathing technique: https://s20.postimg.cc/en6h3wvgd/P5181335.jpg- 2.5s SS now with something to lean onhttps://s20.postimg.cc/9oiypdzd9/P5181332.jpg- 3.2s SS is my limit, some claim to manage 5s but I wonder if they look at 100%https://s20.postimg.cc/ijjszw8q5/P5181338.jpg. The glass itself has its limits. Like the 28F2 and 85F1.8. I see lots of people using 16-50F2.8 type of zooms on crop and I feel sorry for them when they take a silly advice to spend $5000 and upgrade to 24-70F2.8 and 70-200F2.8 while keeping their crop cameras. At its most simple, it's because the same F-number gives the same number of photons per sq mm, so if you can project a larger version of the image onto a larger sensor, while maintaining the same number of photons per sq mm, then you get more photons describing every element in the scene. Your experience as diverse as it may sound maybe your own opinion, everyone here thinks they are an expert :). With 91 focus points (up to 325 points), the camera has a phase detection AF area that covers 50% (side to side) and 75% (top to bottom) of the frame to achieve fast and accurate autofocus.

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